|
In my 35 years working in the marine repair business, I’ve been asked hundreds of times what to look out for when buying a used boat.
If you can afford to it’s best to buy one that’s five years old or newer. The more years and hours on an outboard or stern drive the more money has to be set aside for future repairs. After 20 years, engines and outdrives could be ready for replacement or an overhaul.
An older boat may seem like a good deal until you get the repair bill. I recently overhauled a customer’s GM V-8 with a Volvo drive and the bill came to over $7,000 after the drive work, new pistons, bearings, seals, heads, manifolds, risers, water pump, starter, alternator, V-belts and a few other things.
Once in a while a good old boat can be had. Last year I bought a boat for myself. I hadn’t owned one for 28 years but found a 1977 19-foot Glasply with a 165 HP Mercruiser with fresh water cooling that had less then 300 hours on it. This boat has been in a garage since new and looked like it just came off the show room floor. After replacing the exhaust riser, u-joint bellows, lower shift cable, water pump and a few outdrive seals this boat is back to almost new condition.
The number one rule when buying a used boat is to go for a ride in it! If it's an outboard, first check the lower unit oil and make sure it’s clean and full. Then take the cowling off and make sure the engine is free of rust and salt. Then go for a ride and make sure it starts easy, idles good, steers good, the power trim works good, accelerates smoothly, and after it’s warmed up, take it to wide open throttle. If the engine sounds good and can reach 5500 RPM it’s probably in pretty good shape.
When looking at a stern drive, first put the drive down and remove the top gear box oil vent screw to make sure the oil is clean and full, even if it has an inside oil reservoir. Then remove the bottom fill screw and take a small sample. Make sure it’s clean with no sign of water or metal in the oil.
The only way to know if the engine coupler and u-joint bellows are OK is to remove the outdrive and check it out. The outdrive should easily come off and be well greased on the studs, shift cable area and drive shaft splines. If there is no grease on the drive shaft splines, the engine may be out of alignment and the engine coupler could be worn, which means someone might have to pull the engine out and replace it.
Next, open the motor box and look around. The engine should not be rusty or salty. If the boat is headed for salt water it needs a fresh water cooling system. Salt water cooled manifolds are OK but exhaust risers and manifolds need to be replaced at least every 10 years.
Look at the engine and ask yourself how easy it’s going to be to replace the starter, spark plugs, etc. Some boat designs make it easier than others to maintain. It’s going to cost you more the less room there is to work.
Make sure the engine oil is clean and full and the oil filter is not rusty but easy to get at. The water separating fuel filter should be removed and poured into a clear container to look for water and particles.
Look at the pulleys for the V-belts or serpentine belt. They should not be rusty. The belts won’t last long if they are. If you can, put your hand under the oil pan and check for rust, there should be none. The steering and power steering rods should be well greased just behind the engine. Check all other fluid levels and go for a ride.
Make sure the outdrive goes up and down like it should. The engine should start easily and the starter needs to sound normal. Run the engine at 1500 RPM until warm, and then slow to idle. The engine should sound smooth at 650 RPM. Shift the drive with the control box, forward and reverse should be equal distance from neutral.
Take off a safe distance from shore. The acceleration should be without hesitation. If the engine can obtain 4500 RPM and the engine sounds good it’s developing the proper horse power and the internal engine is probably OK, at least for now.
Make sure it steers smoothly and the engine temperature doesn’t go over 160 degrees. The volt meter should read between 13 and 14 volts and the oil pressure should read between 30 and 50 pounds depending on engine temperature and oil type.
Always check the hour meter if it has one. (But it may or may not be correct.) It could have been disconnected or replaced sometime in its life. About 100 hours a year is average; at least it was when the average person had the right to fish and crab. Two thousand hours is a life time for most marine gas engines. But I’ve seen them last much longer.
I knew a guy from Bremerton, WA named Vern Jones who bought boats from my dad and uncle when they owned Sande Boat Works. He had a 1966, 21-foot Pacific Mariner with a 160 horse power inline 6 cylinder Mercruiser. Back then, he had a kelper’s license for commercially catching salmon off the coast. He put nearly 6000 hours on that engine. Then he traded it in for a 21-foot Glasply in the early 1970s.
Another guy I know, Jim Hays from Seabeck, WA had a four cylinder Volvo overhead cam gas engine in a commercial oyster barge. He put 20,000 hours on that engine and when he replaced it there was nothing wrong with it. These are very rare cases; these boats were run many hours a day and properly maintained.
When it comes to boat trailers for salt water use, galvanized is a must. Also, if it has brakes, there is a good chance they will have to be replaced, along with the wheel bearings and seals. If it has rollers, make sure they roll freely.
Follow my advice and you will have a little better chance of buying a good used boat.
A little luck might help too.
|
